For hundreds of years, especially in India, the ruby was considered the king of the gemstones. Indeed, in Sanskrit, the word for ruby is ‘ratnaraj’, which translates roughly to ‘king of gemstones’.

Ruby is the red version of the mineral corundum. Only the red stones can be called rubies, the rest, often blueish in colour, are called sapphires. On the Mohs scale of hardness, the ruby is a 9, second only to the hardest gemstone, the diamond.

The star feature, or asterism (from the Greek ‘aster’, meaning star), is rare. It can only be seen in 1 in 100 rubies, when they are cut en cabachon. In fact, in three of one hundred rubies cut en cabachon, one will have a poor star feature, another will have poor colour, and only the third will have both a good star feature and good colour. The star, or asterism, is a natural feature: no heat or other treatment is allowed. What creates the star feature in the ruby are tiny rutiles (also called “silk”, or needles) in the stone, which magically reveal the dancing star when the ruby is properly cut. Strong direct sunlight, or a spotlight, reveals the star at its best. Otherwise the star can be said to “sleep”, and the stone just looks red.

Of course, red is the colour of love.

Star rubies are becoming more rare than faceted rubies, as most rough is now cut into faceted rubies. As a result, star rubies over 5 carats have become even more increasingly rare. Until the mid-20th century, star rubies were more expensive than cut rubies. Star rubies are still exotic.

While a pair, only one Sunrise Ruby earring contains a star ruby.

3D printed: 18k white gold, approximately 5ct star ruby, unheated (Gemmological Institute of India certificate).

The exhibition edition is 3D printed: 18k white gold, 9.17ct star ruby, unheated (Gemmological Institute of India certificate).

'Sunrise Ruby earrings', Star Ruby - generating a star.

Sunrise Ruby earrings on Castle 8x8 Mr and Mrs Castle opening scene.

Sunrise Ruby earrings on Castle 8x8 Mr and Mrs Castle.